Traveling to Venice: A 3-Day Gallivant

What more can one say about Venice that hasn’t been already said? It’s beautiful, unlike any other European city in that there are no cars and it’s on an island (or set of islands). Yes, it’s touristy, but as I like to say, it’s touristy for a reason. Venice is one of the most attractive and interesting island cities I’ve ever been to.

Its history looms large over the vaunted bridges and slim canals. The Republic of Venice was founded in 421 towards the end of the Roman Empire when Germanic invasions sent mainlanders across the big lagoon to the islands. It dominated the trade routes on the Mediterranean from Asia to Africa. It became a rich merchant republic, home to a wealthy merchant class and famous for its glass works, medicines, trades and expert shipbuilding. It was run by this wealthy merchant class and headed up by the Doge where he served with an iron fist. The Republic persisted until 1797 and became part of Italy in 1893.

The city of Venice spreads out over a series of 119 islands that are located in the Venetian Lagoon – a vast body of salt water separated from the Adriatic Sea by a long piece of land. Tourism is now it’s biggest revenue producer.

When to Visit

The best times to visit is from April to late October, but the hottest months are June-August. As in most of Central Europe, Spring or Fall is best to travel there. We, however, went to Venice in late August so it was hot and fairly crowded. If you plan properly and set expectations, like we did, then you can still really enjoy this bewitching city.

Where to Stay

I would recommend staying just outside of the super-crowded neighborhood around San Marcos Square. We stayed just to the northeast of San Marcos at the Hotel da Bruno. It has air conditioning and free Wifi, and includes breakfast. Like many Venetian buildings, it has no elevator. Some of the rooms have a terrace overlooking the canal. Ask for one of those as they are well worth the extra price.

I can also recommend the Venice Dose Guesthouse, which is close to Hotel da Bruno, and has views of the canals or Venice rooftops overlooking Santa Maria Formosa church.

Both are about a 7-minute walk over to San Marcos yet just far enough away to be less busy. There are also many excellent restaurants from the Santa Maria Formosa church to the Basilica den Santi Giovanni e Paolo in the Castello neighborhood. We really enjoyed the cafes, gelato stores, and delicious trattorias back in that area. And it is closer to the less busy boat taxi to the other islands.

What to Do

Job 1 of anyone who hasn’t been to Venice before is to soak in the beauty and culture of Venice by visiting their 2 main attractions: San Marcos Basilica and the Doge Palace.

Be sure to get your admission to both of these well in advance as everything is timed and the lines are often long for unscheduled visits. Remember there is a dress code: Absolutely no tank tops or sleeveless shirts, shorts, and exposed knees. They are strict about it.

The basilica is truly spectacular but the Doge Palace is my favorite. It’s a beautiful building with an interesting and often violent history. Get a local tour guide to really learn about it, or at least do the audio tour, so you don’t miss any of the important aspects of this palazzo.

Another worthwhile visit is to the Galleria dell’Accademia museum, the most prestigious art gallery, to see the Italian masters. It began as the Venetian school of painting, sculpture, and architecture, founded in 1750 by the Venetian Senate. It’s often less crowded than the other major sites in the city.

Be sure to walk along the Grand Canal (watch your wallets, purses, and phones) and have an Aperol Spritz or coffee in San Marcos Square. When you get tired of the crowds, opt to walk to the north in the Cannaregio district. It is a very charming and less touristy areas that offer glimpses into local Venetian life. Strada Nova is the Main Street and offers picturesque canals and local shops and restaurants, especially in the back alleys. This neighborhood is also home to the Jewish Ghetto built in 1516.

In fact, I recommend taking a walking tour to see the hidden parts of Venice where most of it is walking in this neighborhood. You will visit the Jewish quarter and the Madonna dell’Orto, famous for its Tintoretto paintings, and much more.

Getting Around Venice

I also suggest you buy a 2-day Vaporetto ticket for the local water taxi that can take you anywhere around Venice as it is larger than you think. I enjoyed taking a Vaporetto over to the Dorsoduro neighborhood. You can walk over the bridge to this small island from western p[arts of the city but from the main area it is easier to boat over. This is the university district and the streets around the Campo Santa Margherita are filled with unpretentious eateries, indie shops, and vintage fashion boutiques. I ate dinner over there and enjoyed walking along the quieter streets of the canal. I recommend visiting the Gallerie dell’Accademia for classic Venetian masterpieces, and the waterside Peggy Guggenheim Collection, which houses modern works.

And no trip to Venice would be complete without a ride in a gondola. Sure, everyone does it. But it truly is majestic and the boat quietly streams through the canals. I suggest doing it before dinner as the sun gets low with a bottle of champagne or wine. It’s the perfect time and weather.

The Other Venetian Islands

As mentioned, Venice is really only one large set of islands closely linked together. There are other islands to venture out and explore. If you want a Venetian beach experience, hit Lido. It has a long and proud history as a resort destination for Venetians. Take the Vaporetto over there for beach time or rent bikes and ride down the long stretch of island.

My favorite islands are Murano and Burano. You can watch craftsmen shape the famous Murano glass using hot air or molten lead at La Fucina. The island also has a museum dedicated to its stained-glass history. We spent a day shopping for beautiful Murano glass and eating along the inner canal.

Burano is even more colorful than Murano. It is truly Instagram worthy, especially the La Casa più Colorata (the most colorful house). Its other main attraction is the making of lace so be sure to visit one of the shops where the women make these beautiful fabrics. Delicious restaurants abound on this small island as well.

The other islands include Sant’ Erasmo, San Michele, or Torcello, but with just 3 days, you really only have time for 1 or 2 off of Venice.

Where to Eat

We ate at a few wonderful restaurants that are worth mentioning. Both had incredible views of the canals and were splurges.

We ate in the Dorsoduro neighborhood at Ristorante Lineadombra on their chic and romantic waterside terrace. Their Aperol Spritzes were the best we had thew whole trip and the food was delicous as well. The next night we ate with an equally as splendid view of the Grand Canal at the Terrazza Danieli in the famous Hotel Danieli. The food was very good here as well.

With two nights in fancy restaurants, we opted to shop at the local mercado and get fresh ingredients to make our own meal as we sat on our own terrace. My husband and eldest son cooked us a wonderful meal!

Check out my video of this trip on my Instagram page (@gallivantiatravel). It’s a great late summer trip!